How to curl hair the right way

Page 3 of 5

Method 3 of 5: Using Hair Rollers

Choose the hair rollers. Hair rollers come in many different types, shapes and sizes. Try to choose a set of rollers that work best for your hair type and also for the type of curls you are trying to achieve.

Hot rollers are very efficient and will curl hair more quickly, but they are more damaging to your hair. Velcro rollers and foam rollers are very easy to use, but your curls will take a little longer to set.^[2]
Velcro rollers are also a great option for hair that is naturally smooth as they are less likely to get tangled in your hair.
Small curlers will give you lots of tight curls, whereas large rollers will give you big loose waves and are great for adding volume.

Figure out if your hair needs to be wet or dry. Depending on the type of rollers, your hair may need to be wet or dry when putting them in. Hot rollers should always be applied to dry hair, as they would cause too much damage otherwise. Velcro rollers are also usually applied to dry hair, whereas special wet set rollers are used if you want to put them in while wet.

If you are applying rollers to dry hair, try to wash your hair the day before you curl. Day-old hair will curl much better than freshly washed hair
If your hair is particularly resistant to curling, try skipping the conditioner after shampooing. This will make sure your hair isn’t too soft for the roller to get a good grip on the hair.
If you are doing a wet set, be aware that you will have to wait for your hair to be completely dry before removing the rollers, which may take a long time. Consider putting the rollers in wet hair before bed and sleeping with them in overnight.

Apply product. Using a little product can go a long way when using hair rollers. Again, which type of product you use will depend on what type of rollers you use and whether your hair is wet or dry.

If you’re using hot rollers, you should use a heat protection product like a mist or dry oil, to prevent your hair from being damaged. A setting product will also help curls to hold their shape.
If you’re using velcro or foam rollers, you should use a setting product along with some volumizing hairspray to prevent your curls from falling flat.
If you’re doing a wet set, a smoothing cream or serum can really help to minimize frizz.

Section your hair. You should divide your hair into three separate sections or layers, using hair ties or claw clips. The more uniform these three sections, the tidier your curls will turn out. To separate the sections, use your thumbs to grab the section of hair around the crown of your head. This will be the top layer and the last section you insert the rollers. The grab any hair that’s above the top of your ears. This will be the middle layer.

The first section of hair you insert the rollers in should be the bottom layer of hair, running around the base of your scalp from one ear to the other.
Release sections as you work. When the bottom section of hair is finished, unclip your hair and let out the next section. Continue working this way until all the rollers are in.

Use the right amount of hair for each roller. Resist the urge to grab sections that are too large for the curlers — you’ll end up with nothing but a small curl at the bottom. A one- or two-inch section (2.5 to 5 cm) per roller is a good standard to follow. The section of hair should be no wider than the roller, otherwise hair will not curl properly.

If your rollers have variable sizes, use the small ones on the top of your head. Use smaller sections accordingly.
If you have long hair, remember that not only the bottom part of the section will actually be touching the roller — the rest of it will be layered over hair. Use smaller sections for more curl.

Wrap your hair around the roller. Starting at the bottom, hold the tip of your hair firmly against the roller with a finger, then roll the roller up along the hair, smoothly and tightly. Tension is the key to creating a good curl, so make sure the hair is wrapped securely around the roller.

You should also make sure there are no lumps or bumps in your hair as you wrap it around the curler, in order to create smooth, consistent curls.
If you’re using hot rollers, be careful not to burn your fingers on the ends of the roller. Try to find a cool spot where you can consistently grip the roller as you put it into your hair.

Secure the rollers. While velcro rollers will attach themselves to your hair without the need for clips, other rollers will need to be pinned into place. Some roller sets will come with pins provided. These pins probably look like long U shapes, with one straight side and one crimped side. Pin the roller so that the straight side is against your scalp, and the curve of the U is cradling the roller at the side of your head.

Be aware that these pins aren’t terribly secure. If you move your head too quickly or suddenly, they might fall loose.
If no pins are provided with your set, similar pins can be purchased at a drugstore. Alternatively, butterfly clips will also work to hold the hair in place.
If you want to avoid an indentation from the clip on your hair, try placing a tissue in between the pin and the hair.

Leave your hair to set. Once all of the rollers have been inserted – in one to two inch sections from the base of your scalp to the crown of your head – you will need to leave the rollers to set. How long this takes will again depend on the type of roller and whether your hair is wet or dry.

Hot rollers can be removed once they have cooled completely – which usually takes about 10 to 15 minutes. This is enough time for the heat to penetrate all of the hair wrapped around each individual roller, as well as for the hair to cool into a curled shape.
Velcro or foam rollers should be blasted with some heat from a hair dryer, then allowed to cool and set for about 15-20 minutes. The longer you leave them in, the tighter the curls will be.
Wet set rollers will need to be left in until all of your hair is completely dry, which may take several hours or overnight. If you are unsure whether your hair is dry all the way through, you can give it a quick hit with a hair dryer before removing the rollers.

Remove the rollers. Once you’re sure your hair has set, you can pull out the rollers from bottom to top. Remove the rollers near your neck and ears first, then move incrementally to the ones at the top of your head.

Once the rollers are out, you can brush out the curls to loosen them. Just don’t overdo it, your curls should keep their shape for two or three strokes, but overdoing it might cause them to fall out.
Alternatively, you can just run your fingers through the curls to separate them and add a some volume.

Set your curls with hairspray (optional). Mist hairspray over your hair to make sure the curl hold their shape throughout the day. To avoid your curls from looking stiff, make sure to hold the can 12-14 inches away from the hair.

For a looser look, pull up a section of hair and mist it with hairspray as it falls back down.
You can also work a small amount of serum into your hair to add shine and reduce frizz.